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Chhum Vy, an outreach worker for Men’s Health Cambodia (MHC), lives in Steung Meanchey, a low-income neighborhood in southern Phnom Penh. She has converted her rental house into a makeshift community centre for gay and transgender people who live in the area. To get there you pass through a Buddhist temple compound, then head down narrow streets, just wide enough for a motorbike.

Arun Seang* works six days a week in a garment factory in Phnom Penh. In the past when he needed time off to go to the HIV clinic he came up with excuses. Now there’s no need. The National Clinic for AIDS, Dermatology and STDs (NCHADS) is open every day, including weekends.